PHI TA KHON FESTIVAL
JUNE
Dan Sai District, Loei District and Province
A HAPPY GATHERING OF FUN-LOVING
SPIRITS
The Phi Ta Khon festival is unique to the Dan
Sai District in Loei Province and reflects
the local Isan belief in ghosts and spirits.
Held once a year, it is part of a grand merit-making
festival known as the "Boon Luang"
festival.
The origins of the Phi Ta Khon Festival can
be found in the tale of Lord Buddha's last
great incarnation before attaining Enlightenment.
In Buddhist accounts, it is said that when
Prince Vessandara, the Buddha's penultimate
incarnation, returned to his city, it was such
a joyous occasion that the village spirits
came forth to join the welcoming parade. This
very colourful and vibrant Phi Ta Khon procession
is the central focus of the celebrations.
In a lively re-enactment of the tale, the young
men of the community dress up as "spirits"
wearing long trailing costumes made from colourful
strips of cloth sewn together.
The hideous-looking Phi Ta Khon mask which
is made of dried sticky rice husk is painted
in bright red, green or other colours, and
features the characteristic long pointed nose.
This completes the transformation. The clanging
sound of the square cowbells worn around the
waist announces the presence of the spirits
who wield phallic-shaped long-handled swords
decorated with red paint. The good-natured,
fun-loving spirits mingle among the crowd,
teasing and amusing all who take part in the
procession. Spectators and visitors are welcome
to join in the fun.
There are two types of "spirits"
featured in the Phi Ta Khon procession namely
the "Phi Ta Khon Yai" -- the supreme
Phi Ta Khon, and the "Phi Ta Khon Lek",
the ones that are commonly found. The making
of the Phi Ta Khon Yai involves the performance
of a sacred ritual to seek the blessings of
the supreme powers before work on the Phi Ta
Khon Yai masks can be initiated. It is also
a task reserved exclusively for the descendants
of families in which the tradition of making
Phi Ta Khon masks has been practised for several
generations. The Phi Ta Khon Yai is made of
bamboo and is dressed in either male or female
attire.
THE PHI TA KHON CELEBRATIONS AND FOLK LEGENDS
The Phi Ta Khon festivities are part of the
"Boon Luang" merit-making ceremony,
the most important of the local celebrations.
In the village of Dan Sai, the residents have
combined two key festivals into one - namely
the Boon Phra Wate religious ceremony and festival
of the fourth month with the Boon Bung Fai
- the festival of the sixth lunar month, also
known as the Bamboo Rocket Festival.
Merit-making is central to the Boon Phra Wate
ceremony with villagers congregating at the
temple to listen to a total of 13 Buddhist
sermons. It is believed that by participating
in the Boon Phra Wate merit-making rituals,
in their next life, followers will be brought
closer to Lord Sri-Araya - the future Buddha.
While the Boon Bung Fai ritual is performed
in an act of worshipping the guardian spirits
of the village and to ask for sufficient rain
to arrive in time for the coming farming season.
Wan Home - Day of the Gathering of Spirits
During the invocation ritual, white pebbles
symbolic of Phra Upakud are collected from
the river bed, consecrated and taken back to
Phon-chai Temple where sacred rituals are performed
in honour of Phra Upakud, a Buddha image associated
with rainmaking rituals.
On the first day of worship known as the Wan
Home - day of the gathering of spirits, activities
begin between 03:00 and 04:00 before dawn breaks.
The villagers assemble and a procession sets
off from Phon-chai Temple heading for the Mun
River. There, before the sun rises, an invocation
ritual is performed calling upon a revered
spirit known as Phra Upakud who is symbolized
by white marble. According to the local legend,
Phra Upakud is a monk with supernatural powers.
Having reached the highest level of meditation,
he attained eternal life and was endowed with
the power to assume any physical or spiritual
form he chose. He opted to transform himself
into white marble and sought to live in complete
solitude in a peaceful environment in the waters
of the Mun River. With these supernatural powers,
the villagers believed that only Phra Upakud
is able to protect the village from evil spirits.
During the invocation ritual, white pebbles
symbolic of Phra Upakud are collected from
the river bed, consecrated and taken back to
Phon-chai Temple where sacred rituals are performed
in his honour.
The local villagers then assemble to perform
the "Bai Sri Su Kwan" ritual to pay
their respects to Chao Por Kuan, the guardian
spirit of the community. Thereafter the festive
celebrations begin with the 'spirits' enjoying
a grand feast accompanied by Isan-style festivities.
The opening ceremony of the Phi Ta Khon festival
is held later in the afternoon at the Dan Sai
District School.
At dawn on the second day, local villagers
dress in Phi Ta Khon costumes and participate
in the colourful masked dance for which the
village is famous. In the afternoon, the Phra
Wate procession commences with a group of Saen
and villagers carrying the offerings and ceremonial
items including an image of Lord Buddha, and
four monks. While Chao Por Kuan is seated on
a bamboo rocket affixed on a colourful decorated
float accompanied by Chao Mae Nang Tiam and
Nang Taeng.
Later in the day, the bamboo rockets are launched
into the sky in the hope of bringing rain.
In the early morning of the third and final
ceremonial day, the villagers return to the
temple to listen to Buddhist sermons for one
last time. This marks the close of Dan Sai's
most important festival in the year.
There is another account of the origins of
this folk tradition. The story is set around
the Wat Phra That Sri Song Rak Temple, an ancestral
site and place of worship that has long been
a revered landmark of the Dan Sai community.
The monument signifies a pledge of friendship
and co-operation between the ancient kingdoms
of Siam and Lao. According to local folklore,
a couple deeply in love were forced apart by
their families. They soon eloped and sought
refuge in a tunnel where donations made to
the Wat Phra That Sri Song Rak temple were
stored. One day, the entrance to the tunnel
was sealed. The couple was trapped inside.
United in death, the couple became the guardian
spirits of the community known as Chao Por
Kuan and Chao Mae Nang Tiem. Over time, many
more spirits came to serve the venerable guardian
spirits. When the season for merit-making rituals
comes around, the spirits emerge to take part
in the procession of the Phra Upakud, the Buddha
image associated with rainmaking rituals. The
date of the festival is set by the appearance
of the Chao Por Kuan and Chao Mae Nang Tiem
guardian spirits before the village medium
during a trance.
PROGRAMME
DAY 1
03.00
The Phra Upakud procession moves
from Phon-chai Temple to the Mun River where
the invocation ritual is performed. Consecrated
pebbles are taken from the Mun River back
to Wat Phon-chai Temple where they are used
in a ritual.
08.30
A Bai Sri ritual is performed
at Chao Por Kuan's residence to summon the
spirits
10.00
"Wan Home - Day of the gathering
of spirits ceremony" is performed at
Phon-chai Temple
13.00
Phi Ta Khon Dance Contest - Preliminary
round
18.00
Cultural performances and stage
drama at Phon-chai Temple
DAY 2
08.00
Spirits' assemble at the Ban Dan
Sai District School for the Phi Ta
Khon Parade
10:00
The Boon Luang Opening Ceremony
and Phi Ta Khon performance
at Dan Sai District Office
Phi Ta Khon Parade
13.00
Final round of the Phi Ta Khon
Dance Contest
15:00
Prince Vessandara (pronounced
Phra Wate-San-Dorn) and Bang Fai
Bamboo Rockets Processions to Phon-chai
Temple
19:00
Buddhist sermons at Phon-chai
Temple
Day 3
04:00
Buddhist sermons at Phon-Chai
Temple
08:00
Town purification ritual at Phon-Chai
Temple
09:00
The procession of Khan Lon from
Chao Por Kuan's residence to Phon-chai Temple
Day 1-2
09.00 - 17.00
PHI TA KHON EXHIBITION AND DEMONSTRATION
At Wat Phon-Chai temple
FOOD AND OTOP PRODUCTS FAIR
In front of the District Office
For your shopping pleasure, there will
be many souvenir items and memorabilia
of the festival, especially Phi Ta Khon
masks including ceramic ones, and a variety
of local handicrafts and products promoted
under the "One Village One Product"
or OTOP campaign.
HOW TO MAKE
PHI TA KHON MASKS
 The
Phi Ta Khon mask is a traditional folk craft
unique to the Dan Sai area in Loei province.
Although subject to the maker's imagination
and creative interpretation, each mask adheres
to the traditional Phi Ta Khon style.
The Phi Ta Khon mask consists of three major
components: the hat, the face and nose.
The hat is made from a traditional bamboo container
used for steaming glutinous (sticky) rice known
as huad. The huad is folded up like a hat so
it fits on the head. The face element of the
mask is made from a coconut leaf sheath with
small openings cut for the eyes. The nose is
made from soft wood. In the past, the nose
was relatively simple. However over the years,
it has evolved and features elaborate shapes
and details. Occasionally two horns made from
dried coconut lobes are also added to the mask.
The various elements are assembled together
with the use of strings and nails. The mask
is then painted in elaborate designs and striking
colours. To complete each mask, narrow shoulder-length
strips of cloth are sewn together and glued
to the back of the mask.
Contact information:
LOEI TOURISM CO-ORDINATOR CENTER
Tel: 0-4281-2812, 0-4281-1405
Fax: 0-4281-1480
TAT NORTHERN
OFICE: REGION 5
Phone : 0-4232-5406 to 7
Fax : 0-4232--5408
e-mail : tatudon@esan.inet.co.th
DESTINATION
HIGHLIGHTS - QUICK REFERENCE
Loei is a border town adjacent to present-day
Laos, formerly known as the Lan Xang Kingdom
in the past. Many of the temples and archaeological
sites in Loei thus reflect the influence of
the Lan Xang artistic style, particularly the
sloping roof covered with wooden tiles commonly
found in Loei. Other distinctive features can
be seen in the Ubosot or ordination hall and
the Viharn, the assembly hall.
•
PHRA THAT SI SONG RAK STUPA
The temple which was built in 1560 is of special
significance as it symbolizes the fraternal
relationship between two kings, namely Somdet
Phra Maha Chakkaphat of the Ayutthaya Kingdom
and Phra Chao Chaiya Chetthathirat of the Lan
Xang Kingdom, who took a pledge of peace at
the stupa that neither would encroach on the
other's territory, and to unify their forces
against the invading army.
The Lan-Xang style stupa is located on a hill
by the Man River and marks the borderline between
the two kingdoms. The stupa is a 30-metres
high brick-and-concrete structure in the shape
of a "cubical lotus", similar to
the Phra That Phanom stupa in Nakhon Phanom
Province, Phrat That Luang in Vientianne and
other such stupas found along the banks of
the Mekong River.
• WAT PHO CHAI TEMPLE
The temple was built in the late Ayutthaya
period and has served as the town's sanctuary
and moral refuge for generations.
Assumed to be of the Chiang Saen period, the
temple houses a magnificent statue depicting
the meditating Buddha with an elongated face
and a flamboyant top-knot. The mural paintings
in the Viharn or assembly hall depict the Jataka,
the ten previous lives of the Lord Buddha.
An inscription on the northern wall suggests
that the mural paintings were completed in
1852 during the reign of King Rama IV. Mural
paintings on the outer walls of the viharn
were completed in 1916.
•
PHRA THAT SATCHA STUPA
Phra That Satcha literally means the temple
of truthful pledge.
One year following the collapse of the Phra
That Phanom in Nakhon Phanom, considered to
be the most revered Buddhist stupa in Northeastern
Thailand, this 33-metre high stupa was constructed
on a large rocky foundation.
Modelled after the original Phra That Phanom,
the Phra That Satcha was constructed to continue
the religious symbolism represented by the
original stupa in Nakhon Phanom. This helped
to heal the sense of loss following the tragic
collapse of the original stupa and re-proclaimed
the pledge to preserve Buddhism in the region.
Relics of the Lord Buddha and his followers
and soil from the original Phra That Phanom
were consecrated within the new stupa. A gilded
Buddha's footprint is housed within the stupa. |
